Thursday, August 24, 2017

The Passion Behind Tsillan Cellars

Passion can be found all over the wine world. Those who are willing to put their blood, sweat and tears in tending to the vines, as well as spending countless hours in their production facilities crafting well-structured wines, will tell you it's a labour of love. But the passion that Devon Griffith, Assistant Winemaker at Tsillan Cellars, has for wine is by far the greatest I have ever encountered!

Photo Courtesy of Tsillan Cellars
Born and raised in the nearby town of Manson, Washington, his family has grown world class tree fruit in the valley for the last 100 years. It has been a dream of Devon's from the very beginning to follow in their footsteps, with a history of hard work and passion. The opportunity to work at Tsillan Cellars fulfilled this desire to the utmost degree. After graduating from Washington State University with a degree in Viticulture and Enology, he came back home to the roots of his passion. One day he hopes to own his own winery in the area. He will no doubt succeed with the passion and knowledge he possesses!

Not technically the entrance, but this is some of the beautiful architecture found throughout the winery!

Walking through the well-architectured entrance and into the gorgeous tasting room of Tsillan Cellars, one would think that this is a more upscale, almost intimidating winery. However, this is not the case. The staff warmly welcomes everyone who walks in, and are happy to show all guests the beauty in Tsillan's wines. Here are some of the standouts I was fortunate enough to taste:

1. Nudo Chardonnay 2016

This unoaked Chardonnay opens with aromas of white peach and a stony mineral edge. The lively body contains a refreshing mouthfeel intertwined with notes of gala apples, lime zest and more of that beautiful white peach flavor! Refreshing acidity and a long, zesty finish make this beauty perfect for summer sips on a patio!

A serene moment of reflection with the Bocciolo di Rosa on the dock of the lake!
2. Bocciolo di Rosa 2016 

Meaning "Rose Bud" in Italian, this rose is composed of 100% Syrah and carries a breathtaking flavor profile of strawberries, mandarins, white peach, and a hint of wild roses. A steely mineral backbone adds complexity and body, leading into a pure, clean finish.


3. Tsillan Cellers 2014 Winemaker's Select Malbec

Malbec grows and produces fabulous wines in Lake Chelan, and dare I say - it was better than any Argentinian Malbec I have ever tasted! Deep ruby in color, notes of ripe blueberries, cocoa, black pepper and a hint of flint. The full-bodied, lush mouthfeel contains racy acidity and smooth tannins, and the long, sultry finish will leave you wanting more!

We then toured around the vineyard and production facility. The soils here are granite-based, which is why Rhone varietals like Syrah and Grenache grow so well in Lake Chelan. The sun's aspect into the North Shore of the lake is key for achieving ideal Brix levels. We sampled a few of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the vine and Devon estimated harvest to be the 2nd week of September. Here are some photos of the production facility and barrel room:




It is clearly evident from the way Devon spoke about both viticulture and the winemaking process how much he loves what he does, which is really refreshing in this day and age. His dedication to his craft and his love for wine is contagious and inspiring! I can't wait to see how far his vine-laced path will take him in the future- in fact, I'm sure he will bring Tsillan Cellars and the Lake Chelan AVA to new heights!


Click here for more information on Tsillan Cellars Winery, including their tasting room offerings, the exquisite Sorrento's Ristorante and much more!

A huge thanks to both Devon and Ashtyn for coordinating my tour and tasting at Tsillan Cellars, I will cherish the memories of that day for the rest of my life. Cheers!

Update from Devon: Harvest began on September 9th, with Syrah grapes destined for our future sparkling rose! It is currently speeding its way through primary fermentation, and will go into terrage for three years before it is released in the traditional Methode Champenoise style. We then commenced picking our Pinot Grigio, which we finished on September 20th. We just picked our first ever Dolcetto! It came from third leaf vines, which although still young yielded amazing fruit!  I just pitched the yeast to it a few hours ago, and as of now it may be included in a blend with another Piedmont native varietal, Barbera, which is set for release in 2019.  If it comes through as a beautiful stand alone wine, we may end up crafting a single varietal wine from it. Up next we plan on picking all of our Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer.

WineGirl Wines: An Interview with Angela 

Lake Chelan AVA (pronounced "shell-LAN") is a wine region that's starting to gain popularity in Washington State, as well as the United States and southern BC. One of the younger AVAs in the USA, the first production vineyard was planted in 1998, and the first bottles were released in 2002. Currently there are more than 20 wineries within the AVA, releasing wines of promising popularity with varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and aromatic whites including Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. In 2004, a talented young winemaker stepped onto the scene and has since become a standout producer in the region. Her name is Angela Jacobs.


Angela found her passion of wine while working part-time for an Italian restaurant. After obtaining her degrees at the University of Washington, she set out to learn winemaking skills from across the globe. When she returned, she purchased 2 tons of wine grapes from the Red Mountain area, licensed her first winery in Seattle and began producing Viognier, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. WineGirl Wines was the 16th winery to open its doors in Lake Chelan. I had a chance to sit down with Angela in the WineGirl Wines tasting room to learn more about the AVA, as well as taste some of the wines she creates.

1. What was the wine that kicked off your passion?
Archery Summit Pinot Noir 1996. I think I still have the bottle!


2. Your bottles are beautifully labelled! Who does the artwork, and what is the story behind them?
A Canadian artist named Francine Delgado, based out of Vancouver. Originally the labels were drawn in a style similar to Disney Princesses, but I preferred the pin-up style of girl so we changed it. I also wanted to showcase the natural beauty of Lake Chelan, so the backgrounds consist of our natural attractions such as Chelan Butte and Wapato Point.


3. How would you describe this year's growing season?
It's been a good growing season so far, the dry heat hasn't affected the vines because of irrigation. Harvest will likely begin around mid-September this year.


4. Which of the wines you create are you most proud of?
I prefer to produce wines that appeal to the local demographics. For example, I started to make a sweet Gewurztraminer when visitors from nearby Leavenworth requested more sweet wines.


5. One of the varietals you grow is Tinta Roriz, in which you use to produce a Port-style wine. What was the inspiration and story behind choosing this varietal?

I wanted to do something different in a more mechanical sense, and a Port fills that with fortifying the wine as well as some aging. Originally I wanted to use Touriga National, but in the end I chose Tinta Roriz, which is the Portuguese name for Tempranillo. Port also fills the sweet wine need in the area.


6. The 2011 vintage was known to be cool and rainy throughout the West Coast. Was this the case in Lake Chelan, and how did your vines and wines fare during this difficult growing season?

Rain continued into June and the grapes didn't really ripen. I had to pull our 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon from the tasting room when it was released as I feel it's too young to drink now, but the wine would be good for aging.


We then tasted the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby in colour, a bouquet of red currant, stewed green peppers and a hint of charcoal leads into a palate that shows more red fruit like raspberries, with a hint of tobacco leaf on the finish. The tannins are focused and well-integrated, marrying well with the mouthwatering acidity to create a complex, full body. This wine spoke to my palate now, and will also evolve in the cellar for 5-7 years. Try pairing this wine with a slow roasted cut of AAA beef, and you will see how well this wine can shine with food!

Angela's dedication and passion are well reflected in the wines she produces, and combined with the natural terroir of the AVA, the sky is her limit. She will do great things as Lake Chelan gains popularity within the USA, and potentially worldwide as the wine market grows.

Thank you Angela, for sitting down with me and showing me the wines Lake Chelan has to offer. Cheers!

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Weekly Wine-Down August 1-7: The Wine in Spain Falls Mainly On My Lips

I used to think that the quality of Spanish wines wasn't comparable to French and Italian wines. I once mentioned this to a fellow winelover at a Vintage Port tasting I attended with him a couple of years ago. He laughed, and said I must try more of them to really appreciate the wine's quality through it's terroir, and "bang for your buck".

I am so glad I listened to him!

Over the past few years, I have found some wonderful Spanish gems, and after focusing on more Spanish wines in the past month, here are some of my personal favourites with a few other producers to try out.

Spain's wine regions spread sporadically throughout the entire country. A wide variety of red, white and rose wines are produced. The most notable regions include:



-Rioja: The most well-known region in Spain, oaked red wines made from grape varietals Tempranillo and Garnacha (aka Grenache) are produced here. The Ribeira del Duero and Toro also feature some wonderful expressions of Tempranillo.
-Jerez: Home of Sherry wine made in a variety of styles
-Catalunya: This is where Spain's signature sparkling wine is produced, called Cava. Some notable wine appellations nearby are Priorat and Montsant, which offer red wines with elegance and structure.
-Rias Baixas: The maritime climate coupled with mineral-rich soil is the perfect homeland for a white wine called Albarino, which carries aromas of stone fruits and melons combined with a mineral structure and zesty finish.

White Wine: Albarino


August 1st was considered "Albarino Day" in the winelovers' world, and my sister-in-law and I celebrated with an interesting take on the varietal. Deep gold in colour, the Pirueta contains aromas of honeydew melon and orange blossom tied into a palate of underripe pear and grapefruit. The body shows more weight than most Albarinos, with a blend of mouthwatering acidity and zesty finish. Pairs extremely well with lighter cheeses like havarti.

Another good Albarino to try is Paco & Lola, which is lighter in style and offers flavours of red apple and crisp citrus. The label is created to catch your eye in store, adorned with black and white polka dots!

Rose Wines



The "dog days of summer" allow for Rose wines to really shine as they pair well with the sunny summer heat. Bodegas Breca delivers a dry rose called Garnacha de Fuego that delivers excellent value perfect for sipping on a hot summer day! Bright and refreshing, with notes of papaya, fresh strawberries and minerality mid-palate. Note: All rose wines should be consumed within 24 hours of opening-otherwise, they lose all their flavour.

Bodegas Muga, based out of the Rioja region, also produces a dry rose that is fuller in body, with concentrated citrus and fresh red berry flavours.

Red Wines: Rioja

And speaking of Rioja, this is the trademark red wine that comes out of Spain. Most are composed of the grape varietals Tempranillo and Garnacha, with Graciano and Mazuelo sometimes blended in. An oaked white blend is also made here; however, I'll focus on the reds this time.

There are 4 types of Rioja red wines: Joven wines are bottled the year after the grapes are harvested, Crianza wines must age for 2 years with 6 months of that in oak barrels, Reserva wines are aged for a minimum of 3 years with 12 months in oak, and Gran Reserva wines must be aged for at least 5 years, including 6 months in oak.


The Beronia Rioja Reserva 2014 is an expressive blend of wild strawberries, red roses, coffee and an earthy note that leads into the long finish. Lively acidity and mocha tannins add structure and complexity. The 2014 is still showing its youth, and would be a wonderful addition to the cellar for another 3-5 years! Pairs well with grilled red meats like lamb chops.

Other Rioja wines to try include Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva and Vina Bujanda Rioja Crianza.

The next time you stop by your local wine store, stop by the Spanish aisle and give some of these value-packed gems a try. I can't say I've ever had a bottle from Spain that I didn't like! You just might find this to be your wine truth as well ;)

Stay tuned for next week's wine-down, when I focus on the Reserve line of Mission Hill's wines.

Cheers!

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